Occasionally I come upon huge men's jackets in rather luxurious fabrics. I'd like to cut them down but there are a number of challenges for me as an amateur sewer. This is an experiment starting with a very slightly moth-eaten 80/20 wool-cashmere double breasted thing ("MANI" for emporio armani).
Firstly, there is my lazy attitude towards linings. I have always thought it seems too complicated to cut down a lining separately. So, I have formed a theory about basting the lining to the outer layer, and treating the layers like a single piece of fabric. Basically, just baste a little smaller than the desired pattern pieces, and cut, then sew as if there is a single layer. You can see this process in the 2nd photo.
So, this actually worked pretty well for making a bodice/vest section. An interesting feature is that the pockets you cut through can remain functional: they "close" again when you sew through all the layers.
The problem mainly occurs in reattaching the (slimmer) sleeves: there is way too much bulk in the seams under the arms.
I'll post again once I figure out how to move forward. Has anyone else tried something like this?
9 comments:
never tried a project like this before, so can't give any wise words of advice, but really looking forward to the end result!
Erica, Editor on Duty
never tried a project like this before, so can't give any wise words of advice, but really looking forward to the end result!
Erica, Editor on Duty
Don't baste the sleeve & lining together. Instead, cut it off where it attaches to the jacket. Pull the lining out of the wrist end - it should all be in one long piece now. Take the extra width in along the long seamline, then pull the lining back into the sleeve. Baste together toward the top, then cut the new shoulder shape & re-attach to the new jacket. You might need to use the top of a sleeve pattern piece from a jacket or blouse pattern to get the shape right.
Hi Eileen, thanks for the advice! One thing I am unsure about from your description: does the lining stay the same size in the altered jacket? I guess that it can since it is thin fabric and will not bunch too much?
What Eileen said... is perfect! Basically you do like a mirror image on the pulled out lining and sleeve so... say your taking in the fullest part of the sleeve 5 inches... that means you also take in the fullest part of the lining 5 inches. If you get my drift. You will have to shorten at the edge by putting the lining and sleeve area's good to good and shorten by sewing above the original sleeve seam. don't forget to trim the seams so it's not so bulky! Good luck... I too an excited to see your end result!
Excellent advice, thanks for sharing it, ladies! I will keep on eye on the final product! I have some jackets as well, but I'm also always worried what to do with lining... Thanks!
You should make this a challenge.
My man is notoriously difficult to fit and can't find suits. He is tall with freakishly long limbs, wide shoulders and thin as a rail. I think it is a fine idea to learn to custom alter clothes to fit him.
Serenity, you and I are in the same boat, only it's my sons who are tall and thin as a rail. I think we need to issue a men's-wear challenge, don't you all?
Gwen - what Jean said! (LOL!) You will need to take the lining in by about the same amount as you do the sleeve. Just be careful - the lining is usually attached at the wrist with about 1 - 1.5 inches of the outer material folded toward the inside. In other words, the lining and the sleeve are rarely ever the same length. I would pull the lining out of the sleeve until the entire seamline shows, from the shoulder of the sleeve to the wrist of the sleeve, which will be joined to the wrist of the lining, and then back out to the shoulder of the lining. It will be one. Big. Long. Seam. Measure from the foldline at the wrist(which will be in the outer material, if the jacket was made properly, LOL) in opposite directions toward the shoulders at each end - take in the same amount on both the lining and the outer material (so that they are mirrors of each other), then pull the lining back into the sleeve material again after giving the new seam a trim and a good press.
On my blog I follow another blog that just posted a tutorial for gussets, you may find that to work nicely for fitting the sleeves. I am using my mobile or I'd look up her info. You can Google it or check my blog: greengirlfaery.blogspot.com best wishes to you, I admire you courage in undertaking this project!
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