I am new to the Refashion movement, but very very excited to get my hands dirty! I've made a few attempts at some refashions, some ending somewhat decent (posts to come), and some ending very very tragically. My biggest issue for my tragedies is when handling the arm holes for my stuff. I'm a bustier gal and it seems, even if I drape it on myself before hand and mark, I wind up with a shirt that looks like something out of a strip club (we're talking without wearing tanks constantly, major side action... maybe even more). I was wondering if you all have any tips of the trade for making sure there is enough coverage in the bust area. I know the easiest way to make sure is using a figure form and I am in desperate need for one but can't get it until Christmas. Any tips on how to do it without one would be a HUGE favor to me and my poor butchered clothing!
Thanks and much love!
9 comments:
Have you tried comparing things to existing well fitting items of clothing. This may not be a perfect method, but it seems that it may be slightly more accurate. Being a novice myself this is the best advice I can offer.
hum, I'd say measuring measuring measuring. A measuring tape costs between 1-4.00 depending on length and type. I would measure a LOT and even double check before cutting something out. Also make sure to give yourself plenty of seam allowance, maybe even a little extra just to be safe. (its easy to take something in not so much to let it out.)
I would measure the following:
Fullest part of the bust, bra band area, top of shoulder to just under bust,and top of shoulder to bottom of armpit opening.
For mannequins and dress forms have you seen the duck tape ones? They are very inexpensive and so handy!
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&authuser=0&source=hp&q=duct%20tape%20mannequin%20tutorial&pbx=1&oq=&aq=&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=308ae7d711fe21ac&biw=1366&bih=643&pf=p&pdl=300
Here's google with lots of links. Just make sure to do 3 layers of tape at the least. I have a friend who made one and she said she only did two and wished she'd done 3. Make sure to wear the bra you normally wear while making it, and to use a t-shirt you don't love. :)
I am in the same boat as far as fitting the girls into anything and I would love to have a dress form. I think the ideas here are great and I intend to try them. But if you are using a garment that fits to go by please don't make my mistake and use a stretchy one.
Try making a quick muslin of one fairly typical item and then add in a piece at the armpit to make it correct, then take it off, trace it back onto some pattern paper then you can compare it to any future patterns to get a sense of where you need to adjust them.
I would second the make your own dress form too, I made one and its awesome! (http://monkeysockslearnstosew.blogspot.com/2011/02/paper-tape-dress-form-phase-1.html, http://monkeysockslearnstosew.blogspot.com/2011/04/finally-agnetha-has-arrived-paper-tape.html)
Also, I always get a better armhole fit if I use my high bust measurement the FBA, rather than try and work round a full bust measurement, as then the arms and stuff are more likely to be to the scale of my shoulders and arms than my oversized bust.
Thanks everyone! I'll definitely give these suggestions a go!
one last point, always err on the conservative side before cutting.... i figured this out the hard way :)
I found a dress form on Craigslist and only paid $60 for it! As you can imagine, it's transformed my ability to design and redesign clothes.
As to the clothing that you've already made that is giving "the girls" too much face time, there are several ways that you can fix that.
1. Take a hint from all the infomercials for pieces of cloth that attach to your bra and just stitch a piece of cloth inside your top that covers the girls a little more.
2. Sew bias tape in one or more layers to the inside of your top along the lines of the bodice but peaking out of the bodice and thus effectively covering the girls.
In most cases, a "FBA" (full bust adjustment) is needed--use your upper bust measurement when cutting out a pattern, and look up some tutorials on line for FBA (stitches and seams blog is good). Are you refashioning using patterns, or just draping? Don't forget seam allowances if you're draping.
Making a little dart in the side of the armhole can help...quite often busty gals actually need shorter upper bodice length, at the same time they need more overall bodice length.
I do full bust type adjustments all the time, but I'm no expert, LOL. A lot is trial and error :) (Take a look at my blog...a LOT is trial and error...)
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